Issue 1.2: articles in their original language

Eccentric fashions: Prison and creativity
Original version: Mode eccentriche: carcere e creatività
Language: Italian
Download: Lunghi PDF
Keywords
critical fashion, prison, creativity, social inclusion, material culture, objects

Abstract
Very particular forms of cultural production are presented in this article which explores three Italian brands: Sartoria San Vittore, I Gatti Galeotti and Made in carcere. These brands come from cooperatives working in San Vittore jail in Milan, and Lecce’s and Trani’s jails, and they are located in a very particular position within the Italian fashion system. Within such experiences, creative fashion work seems to develop not only as aesthetic research, experimentation and planning ability, but also as a form of social redemption and inclusion. Prison fashion brands are able to show new cultural ferments introducing, in daily garments, original emotions and stories, which talk of periphery but also of creativity, inclusion and handcraft, and work with the logic of beauty and production quality in order to recover and re-socialize people at the borders. They create a sustainable aesthetics which points to new productive horizons and new lifestyles and consumptions in accordance with contemporary scarcity of economic and cultural resources.

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Ethics in fashion as a social problem: Ethical fashion in Poland
Original version: Etyczność w modzie jako problem społeczny. Moda etyczna w Polsce
Language: Polish
Download: Raciniewska PDF
Keywords
sustainability, ethical fashion, public discourse, frame analysis

Abstract
At the beginning of the twenty-first century the issues concerning natural environment protection began to be associated with the concepts of social responsibility and corporate social responsibility, and the idea of sustainability has become a criterion for operation assessment and a particular meta-narrative. For over two decades these issues have now been also associated with the garment industry. Although in other western countries, these subjects have long been recognized as important social problems worth seeking solutions to, in Poland discussions regarding ethical fashion are still obscure. The subject of interest in this article is the analysis of the presence of ethical fashion in Poland and the shape of public discourse regarding this topic. The first part defines the concept of ethical fashion. The second part is devoted to a presentation of the most important entities and practices associated with ethical fashion in Poland and the attempts to establish how important these issues are for contemporary Polish people. The third part presents the results of the study on ethical fashion and its role in Polish public discourse, especially in the manners of framing and interpreting in Polish opinion-forming media the problem of the garment factory catastrophe in Bangladesh. The principal aim of the presented analysis is the attempt to provide the answer to the following question: are the issues of ethics and fashion industry responsibility perceived as a significant problem in Poland?

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About Marco Pedroni

Ph.D. in Sociology and social research methodology. I am a Researcher in the Sociology of Culture at the Università e-Campus (Italy), Faculty of Psychology. I got the National Scientific Qualification as Associate Professor (disciplinary area: Sociology of culture and communication). Formerly I was a Research Fellow and an Adjunct Professor of Sociology of Culture at the University of Bergamo, an Adjunct Professor of Communication Theory and Sociology at the Politecnico of Milan, and a Post-doctoral Research Fellow in the Sociology of Culture at the Università Cattolica of Milan, where I am a collaborator of the Centre for the Study of Fashion and Cultural Production (ModaCult). I am currently working on the role of identity and storytelling in the social media, on the themes of sharing and the collaborative economy, and on the cultural industries such as fashion and gambling. I've taught as a Guest Lecturer for several courses and institutions, including the London College of Fashion, the Milano Fashion Institute, the Marangoni Institute, the Universidad of Sevilla, the Izmir University of Economics, and the Winchester School of Art. I am the Editorial Assistant of the International Journal of Fashion Studies published by Intellect Books. I am the author of Coolhunting (2010) and a co-editor of Moda e arte (Fashion and Art, 2012). My most recent book is From Production to Consumption: The Cultural Industry of Fashion (Interdisciplinary, 2013). The full list of my scientific articles is available on my Academia.edu profile.

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