Models wearing Balenciaga in the fashion press: A comparative study

Models wearing Balenciaga in the fashion press: A comparative study
International Journal of Fashion Studies, Issue 2.2 (2015)

Keywords
models, Balenciaga, fashion press, fashion photography

Abstract
This article analyses to what extent Cristóbal Balenciaga’s 1956 censure of the fashion press affected the subsequent coverage of his creations in major fashion magazines. The study focuses on the models that wore Balenciaga’s designs as they were displayed in L’Officiel and American editions of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar from 1937, the date of Balenciaga’s first appearance in the fashion press, and 1968, the year the designer retired, and makes a comparative analysis of the models to determine if there was a change in the fashion coverage of Balenciaga after 1956. In order to assess any possible variation, the study takes into account the evolving context of modelling throughout the period being studied and the characteristics of the models working exclusively for Maison Balenciaga.

Resumen

El presente artículo analiza si el veto a la prensa de moda que Cristóbal Balenciaga protagonizó en 1956, afectó posteriormente al tratamiento informativo de sus creaciones en las principales revistas especializadas. El estudio se centra en las modelos vestidas de Balenciaga que aparecen en L ́Officiel y en las ediciones norteamericanas de Vogue y Harper ́s Bazaar entre 1937,-fecha de la primera aparición en prensa de Balenciaga- y 1968, -fecha de la retirada del modisto-; y, realiza un análisis comparativo de las mismas, para determinar si hubo cambios en la información sobre su moda después de 1956. Con el fin de valorar las posibles variaciones encontradas, el trabajo tiene en cuenta el cambiante contexto general de la profesión de modelo a lo largo del período de estudio, así como las características de las modelos que trabajaban en exclusiva para Maison Balenciaga.

READ THE FULL PAPER IN THE ORIGINAL LANGUAGE (SPANISH):

Modelos vestidas por Balenciaga en la prensa de moda. Un estudio comparativo

The English version is available in the hardcopy edition of issue 2.2 and online:

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About Marco Pedroni

Ph.D. in Sociology and social research methodology. I am a Researcher in the Sociology of Culture at the Università e-Campus (Italy), Faculty of Psychology. I got the National Scientific Qualification as Associate Professor (disciplinary area: Sociology of culture and communication). Formerly I was a Research Fellow and an Adjunct Professor of Sociology of Culture at the University of Bergamo, an Adjunct Professor of Communication Theory and Sociology at the Politecnico of Milan, and a Post-doctoral Research Fellow in the Sociology of Culture at the Università Cattolica of Milan, where I am a collaborator of the Centre for the Study of Fashion and Cultural Production (ModaCult). I am currently working on the role of identity and storytelling in the social media, on the themes of sharing and the collaborative economy, and on the cultural industries such as fashion and gambling. I've taught as a Guest Lecturer for several courses and institutions, including the London College of Fashion, the Milano Fashion Institute, the Marangoni Institute, the Universidad of Sevilla, the Izmir University of Economics, and the Winchester School of Art. I am the Editorial Assistant of the International Journal of Fashion Studies published by Intellect Books. I am the author of Coolhunting (2010) and a co-editor of Moda e arte (Fashion and Art, 2012). My most recent book is From Production to Consumption: The Cultural Industry of Fashion (Interdisciplinary, 2013). The full list of my scientific articles is available on my Academia.edu profile.

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